Tuesday, October 27, 2009

UNIQUE MUMBAI Part II.


















Mumbai is the city of dreams,the city of riches and the city where the stars live on terra firma. It was my destination for the umpteenth time. This time I wanted to see some thing new, something different and something unique.
My first destination therefore was the Jehangir Art Gallery at Kala Ghoda. Fascinating, beautiful paintings by a French artist were on display. The paintings were of rustic India, as well as of small towns, where one sees colourful display of goods, in markets. There was one particular painting of sacks which caught our attention . It was very colourful and eye catching.It was very detailed and realistic. It almost looked like a photograph-each thread of jute on the sack was depicted so very precisely. The different folds and the play of light and shadow were really brilliant. We were spell bound by its sheer artistry and beauty.The novices that we were, as far as pricing was concerned, we tried to guess the price of this one in particular. Could we have been any where close to the price? No way, we were way off. We could not go higher than Rs. 1.5 lacs. In reality it was Rs. 33,50,000/- My first lesson on art was learnt.
Then it was time for lunch at “Samovar” the restaurant attached to the Gallery. This was another unique experience. The place looks more like a passage, occupying only 700 sq. feet. But it has a long history of artists and film stars visiting it. Amitabh and Jaya had their first date here and Kabir Bedi married Protima here. It was started about 45 years ago by Usha Khanna, who is also the mother of Malvika Sanghvi and Devika Bhojwani. This restaurant is in the Jehangir Art Gallery at what is still called Kala Ghoda.It boasts no gourmet dishes, only healthy home-cooked stuff and freshly squeezed fruit juices. Everything was at very reasonable prices. It was a favourite place of M F Hussain, Anjolie Ela Menon, and R K Laxman, besides many other famous people.
The ambiance and the history of the place was fascinating. There was a feeling of being very comfortable and satisfied. There was no hurry and no hassle. It seemed as though time was at one’s bidding. I enjoyed my lunch and the ambiance and its history.
Next on my list was a visit to Chor bazaar. Chor bazaar is located on Mutton Street in Bhindi Bazaar. To find Chor Bazaar, one has to venture right into the thick of Muslim Mumbai, in the busy market area between S V Patel and Moulana Shaukat Ali Roads, near Mohammad Ali Road in South Mumbai. The closest local railway station is Grant Road. Mumbai has this unique style of nomenclature for places. While on the one hand one has Nal Bazaar, Bhindi Bazaar, Tardeo, Kala Ghoda, Dhobi talav, Lohar Street, Gowalia Tank, Bara Handi, which clearly indicate the business that is or was carried out there, other names are such which will keep one wondering about its origins. Sion, Sewri, Malad, Mulund, Parel,Versova, Juhu, are a few that I recall instantly. Can’t make head or tail out of these names.
There were interesting stories about Chor Bazaar which I had heard, one was that if one walks into the Bazaar with a bike in hand, when you emerge you are left holding only the handle and the rest of the bike is already being sold somewhere else in that very market. Therefore with much awe, anticipation and fascination we went looking for Mutton Street. We found it and were taken to another world of yore. Old Furniture, with beautiful dressers, hat stands, easy chairs that one saw in Railway Stations, with nice cane work, were available in plenty. There was also a meat safe with the name of some Parsi gentleman labeled on it. These were safe net cupboards, where food stuff was stored, when every house did not have a fridge.
There were beautiful stately grandfather clocks, as well as other pendulum clocks which were obviously quite old. There were some Railway station clocks which were obviously replicas. They were all new.
There were lovely old Hindi film posters for sale. Quite eye catching and looked of some vintage.
There were old photographs in old frames. Beautiful artifacts, figurines which looked old, crockery, cutlery were all being sold. It was an afternoon well spent. Looking around, haggling, bargaining, and in the end emerging without buying anything!! That, perhaps was the best.
My brother had carried his camera, but hid it in the car under the seat, remembering the story of the bike and handle. We did not want to experience the real Chori.
Chor bazaar at one time must have been a market where stolen goods were bought and sold-but today it is a market for antiques, some may be real and some would be replicas.
Next on my list was driving around Colaba. It was sheer bliss to drive in that area on a Sunday afternoon. The quiet, the buildings and the architecture are magnificent. The place seems to say, "Hush, we are from an era gone by, yet we serve you still, in all our majesty". Those buildings of the High Court, The University, The BMC, VT, The Asiatic Library, The 1857 Memorial opposite VT, all these make one feel so humble. The majesty of the buildings seems to give the message that there will be nothing but justice here. There will be equality, because in front of those daunting buildings,all humans would surely appear small and equal. These buildings are so awesome!! Actually, awe inspiring. I feel like saluting the makers of the building, the designers of the lay out and those who left these for posterity. Pillars which show strength and space. Beautiful Mumbai, unique Mumbai, I can understand why one who comes here never wants to go back.

My trip down Unique, different, Mumbai was good. I have left a lot for my next trip, as I have to keep on adding to it. Its uniqueness will remain intact and hold my interest forever.

Friday, October 16, 2009

FANATICS & INTOLERANCE

Fanaticism is not confined to any one particular sect, culture, religion or region of the world. Fanatics abound everywhere. Often we meet them everyday and yet do not know about their views, unless we come face to face with some strange behaviour of theirs.

Recently at a small get together, I found out how orthodox, fanatic, or extreme some people can be even in today's day and age. My friend I discovered does not eat in a house where non vegetarian food is cooked. Even if things are cooked separately, the thought that it was cooked in the same kitchen is enough to make her feel revolted!! Another friend mentioned that even if a mithai(sweet meat) is made in the shape of a fish her mother would not eat it. The thought was that the traits of the fish would have entered the mithai, as the thought of the maker was on the fish!! Biscuits and cookies made in the shape of animals were taboo too, as the taseer(traits) of those animals would enter into those cookies. Her daughter who lives in the USA does not allow non vegetarian food to be cooked in the house and no one can bring non vegetarian food from outside and eat in her crockery. The word "meat", "chicken" and "beef" cannot even be uttered by them. My friend was speaking with great pride about these taboos. "Amazing"...is a mild word....I can't find a better word to describe this absurd, unreasonable, intolerant thought. I was flabbergasted to know that people who travel and visit the Western world, live in a metropolitan city like Delhi, and appear to be well educated can still exist in today's world with this sort of an attitude. How can one be so intolerant?

What can one say when there are sects which teach this sort of intolerance, separatism and standing out attitude? Fanatics are the bane of society. It takes us blindfolded in a direction where reason has no place. Like sheep one is herded in a direction, which may not always be in the best interest of the herd. Intelligent human beings with brains to think, education to rationalise, and the vision to see, understand and evolve are turned into mechanical robots who are only capable of taking orders without thinking, are incapable of making their own judgements and are unable to take their own decisions. This is what makes the world a very difficult and strife ridden place for a lot of other people.

This kind of attitude keeps the hierarchical system of society alive. A superiority complex is developed which encourages inequality. A human being is a human being, irrespective of the food he eats, the life he lives, or the vocation he has. Irrespective of the religion he follows, the caste he is or the gender to which he/she belongs. Why do some religions and sects teach and propagate this attitude of discrimination? Differences, intolerance, treating different people as pariahs all speak of discrimination. It also helps in gender based discrimination with superiority complex of men, who think of women as nothing but stupid, silly, extravagant, and objects to be made fun of. How can we become better people with happy thoughts and love and compassion for everyone, when a lot of people are being led blind folded towards a life of intolerance??

Most religions have these extreme fanatics who propagate intolerance, injustice and blind faith. It is time one woke up to use ones higher intelligence capacity to think, reason and grow into people who are not followers of a cult and blind faith, which leads to intolerance. A world which is equal, free and tolerant. Where a human being is a human being, and is loved and respected for being just that.

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