Tuesday, October 27, 2009

UNIQUE MUMBAI Part II.


















Mumbai is the city of dreams,the city of riches and the city where the stars live on terra firma. It was my destination for the umpteenth time. This time I wanted to see some thing new, something different and something unique.
My first destination therefore was the Jehangir Art Gallery at Kala Ghoda. Fascinating, beautiful paintings by a French artist were on display. The paintings were of rustic India, as well as of small towns, where one sees colourful display of goods, in markets. There was one particular painting of sacks which caught our attention . It was very colourful and eye catching.It was very detailed and realistic. It almost looked like a photograph-each thread of jute on the sack was depicted so very precisely. The different folds and the play of light and shadow were really brilliant. We were spell bound by its sheer artistry and beauty.The novices that we were, as far as pricing was concerned, we tried to guess the price of this one in particular. Could we have been any where close to the price? No way, we were way off. We could not go higher than Rs. 1.5 lacs. In reality it was Rs. 33,50,000/- My first lesson on art was learnt.
Then it was time for lunch at “Samovar” the restaurant attached to the Gallery. This was another unique experience. The place looks more like a passage, occupying only 700 sq. feet. But it has a long history of artists and film stars visiting it. Amitabh and Jaya had their first date here and Kabir Bedi married Protima here. It was started about 45 years ago by Usha Khanna, who is also the mother of Malvika Sanghvi and Devika Bhojwani. This restaurant is in the Jehangir Art Gallery at what is still called Kala Ghoda.It boasts no gourmet dishes, only healthy home-cooked stuff and freshly squeezed fruit juices. Everything was at very reasonable prices. It was a favourite place of M F Hussain, Anjolie Ela Menon, and R K Laxman, besides many other famous people.
The ambiance and the history of the place was fascinating. There was a feeling of being very comfortable and satisfied. There was no hurry and no hassle. It seemed as though time was at one’s bidding. I enjoyed my lunch and the ambiance and its history.
Next on my list was a visit to Chor bazaar. Chor bazaar is located on Mutton Street in Bhindi Bazaar. To find Chor Bazaar, one has to venture right into the thick of Muslim Mumbai, in the busy market area between S V Patel and Moulana Shaukat Ali Roads, near Mohammad Ali Road in South Mumbai. The closest local railway station is Grant Road. Mumbai has this unique style of nomenclature for places. While on the one hand one has Nal Bazaar, Bhindi Bazaar, Tardeo, Kala Ghoda, Dhobi talav, Lohar Street, Gowalia Tank, Bara Handi, which clearly indicate the business that is or was carried out there, other names are such which will keep one wondering about its origins. Sion, Sewri, Malad, Mulund, Parel,Versova, Juhu, are a few that I recall instantly. Can’t make head or tail out of these names.
There were interesting stories about Chor Bazaar which I had heard, one was that if one walks into the Bazaar with a bike in hand, when you emerge you are left holding only the handle and the rest of the bike is already being sold somewhere else in that very market. Therefore with much awe, anticipation and fascination we went looking for Mutton Street. We found it and were taken to another world of yore. Old Furniture, with beautiful dressers, hat stands, easy chairs that one saw in Railway Stations, with nice cane work, were available in plenty. There was also a meat safe with the name of some Parsi gentleman labeled on it. These were safe net cupboards, where food stuff was stored, when every house did not have a fridge.
There were beautiful stately grandfather clocks, as well as other pendulum clocks which were obviously quite old. There were some Railway station clocks which were obviously replicas. They were all new.
There were lovely old Hindi film posters for sale. Quite eye catching and looked of some vintage.
There were old photographs in old frames. Beautiful artifacts, figurines which looked old, crockery, cutlery were all being sold. It was an afternoon well spent. Looking around, haggling, bargaining, and in the end emerging without buying anything!! That, perhaps was the best.
My brother had carried his camera, but hid it in the car under the seat, remembering the story of the bike and handle. We did not want to experience the real Chori.
Chor bazaar at one time must have been a market where stolen goods were bought and sold-but today it is a market for antiques, some may be real and some would be replicas.
Next on my list was driving around Colaba. It was sheer bliss to drive in that area on a Sunday afternoon. The quiet, the buildings and the architecture are magnificent. The place seems to say, "Hush, we are from an era gone by, yet we serve you still, in all our majesty". Those buildings of the High Court, The University, The BMC, VT, The Asiatic Library, The 1857 Memorial opposite VT, all these make one feel so humble. The majesty of the buildings seems to give the message that there will be nothing but justice here. There will be equality, because in front of those daunting buildings,all humans would surely appear small and equal. These buildings are so awesome!! Actually, awe inspiring. I feel like saluting the makers of the building, the designers of the lay out and those who left these for posterity. Pillars which show strength and space. Beautiful Mumbai, unique Mumbai, I can understand why one who comes here never wants to go back.

My trip down Unique, different, Mumbai was good. I have left a lot for my next trip, as I have to keep on adding to it. Its uniqueness will remain intact and hold my interest forever.

1 comment:

Haddock said...

Actually, awe inspiring. I feel like saluting the makers of the building, the designers of the lay out and those who left these for posterity. Pillars which show strength and space. Beautiful Mumbai, unique Mumbai. .. . . . ..... lets hope and pray that these buildings remain as they are.

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