MY DAYS IN ZANNAT

Long, long ago, in the year 1976, I was posted to Srinagar (J&K), by State Bank of India, for my second branch training. I and my friend who had joined the Bank on the 10th of September 1975, arrived at Srinagar. The wonderful, beautiful, enchanting Srinagar, which one had seen in numerous Hindi movies, was mine to see, enjoy and stay in. I couldn't believe that I had got this lovely opportunity to actually spend time in this Heaven on Earth! People used to visit Kashmir for a holiday and go back, but here was I, going to stay here for four whole months! I was thrilled and excited!

We reached the stately building of the SBI on Residency Road. Our Branch Manager was happy to meet us, and we were happy to meet the people in the branch. We were in fact delighted to meet Mr. K B S Bedi, who was senior to us and was a Field Officer at the branch. He quickly took us under his wing and invited us to take over his house which he called the Probationary Officer's(P.O.) house! Before him a number of P.O's had stayed in the house, and therefore it was sort of an inheritance. He was under orders of transfer and the house was a two bedroom house with a huge drawing/dining room, and also a beautiful covered verandah in the front. Vinita and I quickly grabbed this opportunity. This house was across the Jhelum and wonder of wonders, we had to actually go across the river by shikara twice in a day! Wow, Hindi films, and the effect of the shikaras made us feel like Sadhana and Sharmila Tagore in no time! We loved the place, we loved the shikara and we loved Srinagar.

A shikara

We would walk about half a kilometer, catch the shikara and get off in front of the backyard of the Grindlay's Bank. Then we walked another half kilometer on the embankment of the Jhelum and reached our majestic SBI building. The staff was amazing. Each person was more good looking than the other. We were both getting trained in Agricultural, Small Business Finance, Small Scale Industries, and Foreign Exchange business.

The Forex business was mainly about encashing and selling currency and travellers cheques. Once we saw a beautiful sight of four women in a row come to encash travellers cheques. They had a unique covering on their faces. It was like a masquerade mask made of gold. The forehead was covered, and the nose and cheeks were covered. They wore black robes and were following a Sheikh. It was actually a Sheikh with his harem in tow!Inspite of so many years having elapsed that picture is still vivid in my memory. 

The veil

Agriculture banking took us to the nooks and corners of Srinagar and the neighboring areas where financing had been done by our Bank. We used to tag along with KBS Bedi, who had to often go to the villages unannounced and quite early in the morning, so that the borrowers did not get an opportunity to run away from the bankers who had come to collect their installments and repayments to the bank. We would sit in a room with a number of men all wearing Phirans and holding kangdis close to their chest to keep warm in the cold winters. Incidentally, we were there in the peak summers. Yet Srinagar being at a high altitude it was considerably cool. Although not cold enough for holding kangdis! We were offered boiled eggs and absolutely milky tea  as refreshments.

Almost every evening we climbed the Shankaracharya Hill and looked down at the view of the gorgeous city, the Dal lake, the Pari Mahal, and the Char Chinar.

Every Monday we had to report to our Branch Manager and tell him about the training that we had received during the past week. The gentleman would first of all ask us what we had done during the weekend. He would say, you have come to Zannat, and must take this opportunity to see the place. Vinita and I religiously and dutifully visited every nook and corner of the state. 

Incidentally in the ground floor of our flat lived two Probationers of a batch senior to ours. They were undergoing their third branch training. They were posted at Anantnag, but often came down to Srinagar. Besides this we had SPS Singla, and Sudhir Mehra from Lead Bank department of LHO(Local Head Office) New Delhi visiting our branch off and on. Singla would stay with Bedi too.

After dinner we would all walk down the road up to Zero Bridge, we would cross the bridge and have a cup of coffee, at a small wayside cafe. We would have endless discussions about everything under the sun! No one was in a hurry to get back to sleep, no one bothered about security. Life was serene, peaceful, beautiful and absolutely delightful!

I have lots to tell about Zannat, so watch out for the next episode...it will be coming soon!