Sunday, July 25, 2010

EUROPE PART 2-GERMANY-DEUTSCHLAND






From Brussels we moved eastwards to Germany. Germany,to me is the land of Hitler, the persecutor of Jews.The moment we crossed the border, I could think of nothing except to imagine lines of Jews being hounded out of their houses to be sent to concentration camps.However, I am glad that I did visit Germany, as the feeling of sorrow and horror that I always feel as soon as I think of Germany, vanished by the time my tour of Germany concluded.
The day we entered Germany was the day Germany beat England in the World Cup series. After a long drive we reached Wurzburg and were looking forward to reaching our hotel. Suddenly we saw that we had stopped moving and there was a huge traffic jam ahead. The huge wide road was choc a bloc full of cars. The colours yellow, red and black were visible all over the place. All the cars had delirious people, displaying the flag, and colours of the flag. It was like a huge sea of cars with flags. People with half their bodies out of the cars, dancing in the cars, on motor bikes, or whatever mode of transport they were on, was a mesmerising sight. There was almost no movement of traffic. It was at a standstill and jubilation could be heard miles away. People  wore garlands around their necks, head, arms in the colour of the flag. They were simply sharing their joy on the roads.It seemed as if all the people of the city had congregated there to celebrate.Some people even had replicas of the World cup in their hands.We were astonished to see their celebration. If this was their reaction to this win, what would they do if they actually won the World cup was the thought on the minds of all of us.
We had to take a diversion, as there was no intention of anyone to move and reach their destination.
We reached our hotel, had our dinner and decided to go out for a stroll. It was an impromptu decision and we had no guide.We started moving towards some monuments which were lit up. A young lady on a bike crossing the road was stopped by us to ask what that particular building was. She explained it to us and then insisted that she would take us to the olden bridge which was the pride of Wurzburg. She said it was only 5 minutes away. Trusting her and delighted to find an English speaking person, so proud of her city,we went with her. She showed us a lot of places and told the history too. It was a good 20 minute walk before we reached the bridge. Yes, the bridge was really a beautiful ancient bridge with statues of saints on it. The view of the lit up Fortress Marienberg from the bridge was breath taking.The old Main Bridge (Alte Mainbrücke) was built in 1473–1543 to replace the destroyed Romanesque bridge that existed since 1133. It had well-known statues of saints and famous persons. Kristina,our friendly guide, was justified to be so proud of her city.
In 1945, about 90% of the city was destroyed in World War II air raids. Almost none of the city's churches, cathedrals, and other monuments  survived. The city center, which dated from medieval times, was totally destroyed.The city has been rebuilt completely since then and has been restored to it's ancient glory.
Incidentally massacres of Jews was not new to this place as that had taken place earlier in 1147 and 1298 and, expulsions had taken place throughout the Middle Ages. In the period of Nazi rule, the entire Jewish and gypsy population of the city was nearly wiped out.
The next day we went to Nuremberg.I only knew about the "Nuremberg trials". I now learned that it was actually the cradle of the Nazis.The first Nazi conventions were held here. Hitler's first major rally was held here.These rallies were called "Nuremberg Rallies". Who has not heard of the 1935 "Nuremberg law" by which German citizenship of all Jews was revoked?
The market square at Nuremberg is very big and is called Hauptmarkt.The famous Gothic fountain "Schoner Brunnen" which means beautiful fountain is in this square. This was built in 1385."Schoner" or beautiful sounds so similar to the Indian words Soni,soniya or sona, which all mean golden or beautiful!!There is a beautiful church also located in this square. There were a lot of stalls in the square,which were selling local produce, and we had a field day just watching the lovely place.This place is the venue for the annual Christmas market,where one gets traditional spicy gingerbread,bakery goods and Christmas articles.The tinsel used for decoration also originated in Nuremberg.
Nuremberg too was almost fully destroyed in the II World War. This place too has been rebuilt to its fabulous glory.This is what resilience is all about. The courage to put the past behind, rebuild and move on in life.
I could not see any vestige, remnant or sign that there was ever anything Nazi here. 
The German language sounds very hard. The people seldom smile, but the beauty of the toys made here are outstanding.The neatness, the beauty of the streets, the layout of the houses and lanes was absolutely beautiful.Germany was really very very beautiful. As I could not get the feelings of sorrow out of my mind thinking about the brutality of humankind and the systematic hounding and killing of entire masses of people, I could not love the place.
We then went on a Rhine river cruise. There are hills on both sides of the river, and on top of the hills are beautiful castles. How can one forget Grimms Fairy tales? Heidi? My childhood memories of fairy tales came true here. I could see Heidi running down the hills. I could visualise the monsters of the castles and the damsels in distress locked up in the castles. They were all there!!  
There are beautiful neat villages on the banks of the river,each village has  a church. Words fail me in describing the amazement I felt. The castle owners collected revenue from the boats that passed by the river. They had lovely toll stations at the base of the hills. On these hills are two castles known as Burg Cat and Burg Mouse. There are two castles of two brothers(picture on left) facing each other on two hills with a wall in between. Both the brothers loved one girl, who ultimately ended up in a nunnery at the base of the hills.
The town from which we went on the cruise was Boppard. It is almost 2000 years old and a UNESCO World heritage site. The little shops on the way, stocked Birkenstock,the famous comfortable sandals, the cuckoo clock, which incidentally has its origins in Germany, and lots of Hummel toys. The day we reached Boppard, was the day when vehicles were not allowed on the roads.It was a field day for cyclists,and we saw all the roads full of cyclists and also lots of people on skates, or skateboards. They were going in tandem or simply having lots of fun. 
Boppard has dramatic, Gothic architecture.  Just north of Boppard is the largest bend in the entire river where one finds a statue of Lorelei, a girl with long hair,  who would entice sailors and cause ship wrecks.The river Rhine is vast and is used to transport goods and also ferry people.Grapes grow along the steep hillsides, and a variety of wines, mainly from the Riesling grape are made here.

Germany, glorious, beautiful,rebuilt! Land of beautiful cars. The Mercedes, BMW,Audi, Volkswagen,Opel, Porsche, all are from here.German goods were once very famous. Man, Siemens, Bayer, the Ritter chocolate and Haribo are German,so is Lidl the Grocery chain.
This country which I felt was very inhuman has given us  amazing musicians. Beethoven, Bach, Brahms, Handel, Strauss, Stockhausen, Wagner were all German composers! Could one Hitler(incidentally,I share his birth date) spoil all the glory of Germany? Nicht, nicht, nicht,no way!!
I will remember Germany for its beauty, music, cars, autobahns, the lovely meandering Rhine, the castles and Grimms fairy tales.
Autobahns reminds me of Raststatte or Rest stations by the Autobahns. These rest areas have restaurants serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.They are the best that I have seen.One of these has a dancing toilet. Yes indeed, there is a lever which when pressed,will make the seat actually dance. Most of us took videos of the dancing toilet as it is available only in the ladies toilet!! Innovative!!What will they think of next??
Aufwiedersehen Germany,I will surely see you again.

5 comments:

Unknown said...

I just don't know how you remember all the details. I write stuff down but you amazingly remember everything. Another fascinating read. You capture it all just as I remember it. Thanks Varsha

triloki nagpal said...

Amazingly well written and very informative.

Prem Varma said...

I really enjoyed going through your trip and was reminded of our own time there. I agree with you that it is really beautiful but i always described it as a picture post-card as I used to find it very anti-septic and devoid of human beings. (Of course any win is celebrated on the streets and every one will be out on the roads aven at midnight. We happened to be there when Boris Becker won and we participated in the revelry after dinner.)
Its very interesting and I like your style.
Prem

Varsha Uke Nagpal said...

Varsha, that was a lovely virtual tour of Germany. Great pics. I have a major client near Wurzburg and go to that part of Germany frequently - now I realize how much I have been missing in that area ! Look forward to Part 3.
Vikas Chandra

Prithviraj Banerjee said...

Loved it !

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