Saturday, February 21, 2009

UNIQUE MUMBAI






They say never look a gift horse in the mouth. I do not think Charles II of England looked at Bombay when he got it as dowry from the Portuguese in 1661 for marrying Catherine de Braganza.


The city of dreams, fortune, riches, films, theatre, art,and Marathi manus-Bombay, Bambai, Mumbai!Every one's dream comes true here. It is a melting pot of all cultures, all states and religions. The rare Parsi, Bohra, Jew, Anglo Indian community are found a plenty in Mumbai. The city seems to have actually developed under the Parsis the most. Their Theatre, Art, culture, cuisine, way of life, exquisite dresses -emitting so much dignity and grace made Mumbai glamorous. There is an amalgam of the Indian saree draped with so much style as if it is a Western garment, and the hand embroidery on it is a delight to watch. The dress of the men too is distinguished. The loving way of talking, particularly the word Deekra or child made famous in a number of Hindi movies, is different from the normal Mumbaiyya.


The Hindi of Mumbai is distinct. Apun, tere ko kya, kyaaa, khal-las, jhakaas, bindass, aeii tu aata kya re, this is typical Bambaiyya. It has found its way in the mainland of India due to it's influence on the Mumbai film Industry.


Films, magnificent scenes, stories, drama, ethos, pathos, everything is there in these films. Love, boy meets girl, rich girl poor boy, mother always on the sewing machine, father perpetually with the umbrella, lovers running around trees singing, all what doesn't happen in real life is seen by us with wonder on reel life. Love triangles, impossible deeds, extreme hero-giri, extreme sacrifice, the police always arriving late, the Kumbh ke mele me separation-oh the stories and their portrayal are so convincing! We all love our dose of Hindi films. Mumbai is the city which has made heroes out of people with no godfather. There are so many stories of how Dev Anand, Dharmendra, Mumtaz, and so many others struggled to get a foot hold in this industry. Stories of footpaths, Irani dhabas, and walking miles and miles to reach studios, and their ultimate success. These spur a whole lot of people with dreams to run away to Mumbai.


Even if the film industry does not smile on a whole lot of them, there is a lot of work for everyone in this mahanagri. Anyone or everyone who comes here has found a way to earn a living. People have to earn it. They do. The attitude of Mumbaikars is very professional. Life is run like clockwork. Planning has to be precise as transportation is generally by the local train, which is very punctual. Distances are too much and traffic on the road is tremendous. One good thing about the traffic in Mumbai is that it is unlike any other city of India. The people of Mumbai actually follow traffic rules, they actually follow lane driving. The lane driving and the punctuality of the local trains are the factors which make the Mumbaikars follow a set pattern. They don't have time to gossip, look here and there and waste time. They have to run from place to place and be on time.Time for them is money.


The dabbawala is a unique phenomena of Mumbai. Their precision is so perfect that their system has found it's mention in most high profile business schools all over the world, where their management style is studied.


The localities of Mumbai have very different sounding names. Have you heard of any other place called-Sion, Bandra, Mulund, Malad, Borivali, Kandivali, Bhandup, Mahim, Juhu, Parel, Dadar? What do these names mean? On the other side we have Dhobi Talao, Nal Bazaar, Bhindi Bazaar, which are work specific names.


There are some door to door services that I have not seen elsewhere. There is a service of delivering garland of the size you want at your doorstep daily in the morning. No need to go anywhere to get flowers for your daily Puja. In the parks where there are a lot of people taking their morning walks, one finds a stall selling all kinds of fresh fruit juice-all the healthy variety. You name the fruit and they have the juice.


Then we have a bhelpuri wala selling his delicious bhel out of a cycle on the Rajendra Kumar Chowk in prestigious Bandra. Bhel, vada pav, pani puri, sabudana vada, all sell at every corner and are relished by all, rich and poor alike. The ice cream variety too is tremendous. From the Natural ones where you have actual frozen fruit ice cream, to the Haji Ali Sitafal Cream-Wow is not the word. One also gets fried ice cream-what will they think of next?


It is not possible to see the sky in Mumbai. Stars-there are plenty of them living in Mumbai, the film variety - you can neither see this variety nor the variety that can usually be seen elsewhere in the sky. There are so many dwellings, so many houses, so many buildings, so many slums, so many people!! To see a vast multitude of humanity, just watch the road in front of Churchgate station on any working day - it is amazing to see the heads! Such a wide road filled with nothing but heads!!


I love to walk on Marine Drive early in the morning. (The photo on top is of Marine Drive taken by my neice Tanya.) Ujjwal, my brother lives off Marine Drive, so whenever I visit him, my destination is Marine Drive. It is a marvel to see the number of people walking there and yet observe the cleanliness. It is surprising. There are groups of people who meet there every morning. An old people's group is interesting to watch. If there is an occasion for celebration, the member will bring sweets, announce the occasion and distribute sweets in his group. They have regular interaction, discussion and it is more like a social platform, rather than just a morning walk. One can see a number of famous people taking their walk or jogging along with their security guards flanking them on this walkway by the sea.


There is not a moment's silence in Mumbai. It is alive twenty four hours in a day. Mumbai is one of the safest places for women in the country. One can see ladies going back home from work at all hours of the day, without a trace of fear on the face. Public transport is safe and the people respect women.


Mumbai is heaven for those who own a house here. Otherwise life is very difficult. Getting a house on rent is almost impossible. They have a unique system called the "pagdi system" where the rent is not too high, but the deposit taken in advance is really very steep. Often it is impossible for a new entrant to the city, to find a suitable dwelling, they have to go to the suburbs or even beyond. Then there are chawls-these were actually chawltrees or cheap housing provided to mill workers who migrated to Mumbai to work in the cloth mills in the late 19th century. These were one room tenements with a cooking space and common toilet, a common balcony in front of the room leading to the stairs. These have survived to this day and are in prime central locations.


Festivals are unique here. Id, Christmas, Parsi New Year's Day are celebrated by one and all by visiting each other and interacting. Janmashtmi is celebrated with fervour where a matki is tied very high upAdd Image which has to be broken and goodies taken by the ones who succeed in breaking it. People make human building blocks, one tier over another, until one person can climb over their shoulders and break the matki. Even Dussehra is more of the Garba Dance festival which is celebrated for nine days. Ganesh Chaturthi too is a public function celebrated with great fervour. Sankranti too is celebrated more as a social function where til and gud are distributed and the saying at that time is "Til gud ghya, goad goad bola" -which means take this sesame and jaggery and talk sweetly. Most festivals are celebrated together with bon homie.


It is a unique city with great character, joy, professionalism, dignity, dreams, work and togetherness. A truly cosmopolitan city with a lot of hope. There is no other place like Mumbai, anywhere in the world. They say anyone who comes to live here never leaves the place. Once a Mumbaikar always a Mumbaikar.

2 comments:

Ranjana Bharij said...

Very enlightening! I have been living in Mumbai now for about three and a half years but never knew so much about the character and characteristics of Mumbai. Feels good being part of this city at least at some stage of life. You have not commented on the climate of Mumbai, Varsha. Whenever I came here earlier, I abhorred the humid climate which invariably sapped all my energies. But now I have kinda got used to it. Neither chilly winter and biting cold, nor the hot dusty 'loo' of the Northern planes,the climate here is quite temperate. Only problem, you cannot wear your woollens and silk sarees collect the mouldy smell due to lack of use. All said and done, a very unique city, I agree with you. Alas, I will be leaving it by the end of this year.

Anonymous said...

Coming from a Delhi wallah, this Ode is in Mumbai terms 'Zalkaas'

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